17 across Europe
Cellar & vineyard
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A heuriger on the city edge
Wine taverns in Vienna's own vineyards, open only when the grower has wine to sell — a pine branch over the door means open.
Vienna, Austria · moderate
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A lambic brewery, spontaneously fermented
Beer left open to the air of one valley, aged three years in barrel — the last place in the world doing this at scale.
Brussels, Belgium · moderate
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A Moravian cellar at harvest
Burčák — half-fermented, cloudy and briefly available each September — is drunk cold from the barrel and does not travel.
Mikulov, Czechia · low
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Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the village
Thirteen permitted grape varieties and stones the size of fists that hold the day's heat into the night; the growers pour in their own cellars.
Avignon, France · moderate
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A small Saint-Émilion cellar
Skip the classified growths and visit a family making 20,000 bottles; you will taste from the barrel and be told the truth about the vintage.
Bordeaux, France · moderate
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Down into the crayères
Chalk quarried by Romans, thirty metres down, holding millions of bottles at a constant temperature nobody has to pay for.
Reims, France · moderate
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A qvevri cellar and a supra
Wine fermented in clay buried to the neck, then a table that goes on for hours with a tamada running it.
Sighnaghi & Kakheti, Georgia · low
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Vines grown in baskets
No trellises: the vines are woven into circles on the ground to shelter the fruit from wind and catch night moisture.
Santorini, Greece · moderate
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A mouldy cellar in Tokaj
The black fungus on the walls regulates humidity and is left alone deliberately; taste dry furmint first and six-puttonyos last.
Tokaj, Hungary · low
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Vermouth where it was invented
Carpano started here in 1786. The historic cafés still serve it the way it was drunk: cold, alone, with a small plate.
Turin, Italy · low
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Driving through a wine cellar
200 km of limestone galleries with street names, and two million bottles. Visitors go in by vehicle because walking would take days.
Chișinău, Moldova · low
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Treading grapes at harvest
Knee-deep in a granite tank for two hours, in a line, to a rhythm — the least romantic and most enjoyable part of winemaking.
Pinhão & the Douro valley, Portugal · moderate
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Port, tasted in the right order
White, then tawny by age, then vintage — the tawnies are where the interest is and where the guides usually rush.
Porto, Portugal · moderate
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Cork oaks and Alentejo reds
The trees are stripped every nine years and the date is painted on the trunk; the wine estates between them charge a fraction of the Douro.
Évora, Portugal · low
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The Small Carpathian wine road
Twenty minutes from the capital: family cellars in Pezinok and Modra that sell almost nothing beyond the region.
Bratislava, Slovakia · low
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Heroic viticulture, from the river
The growers call it viticultura heroica without irony: everything is carried up and down by hand or cable, and the boat is the only way to see why.
Ribeira Sacra, Spain · moderate
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Three distilleries on foot
Ardbeg, Lagavulin and Laphroaig sit within five kilometres of each other along one coastal path — walk it, for obvious reasons.
Islay, United Kingdom · moderate